Last weekend I went to Majahual which is about 3.5 hours south of Cancun almost to the border with Belize. Majuahual is a small beach town but is becoming increasingly popular and busy due to a large cruise ship port. So large that the most massive cruise ship in the world docks once a week. Many streets have been expanded and paved and new houses have been built to accommodate the influx of workers.
Conversely just 15 kilometers north of Majahual is largely undeveloped raw beauty. There are a few houses scattered about. Some were so damaged in Dean that they have been abandoned. Others withstood the storm or are new builds. There are no restaurants, grocery stores or other shops. You must bring all of your supplies with you or make the 25 minute drive back into town. We rented a wonderful beach house that was very reasonable due to low season. We kayaked north a few kilometers and went snorkeling; we were the only ones on the reef. In the morning it was incredible to watch the sunrise from the balcony. The pink, orange and blue colors mixed with clouds were unlike anything I had seen in a long time.
Majahual is within driving distance to many ruins. We made the long trek to Becal, which is a 2.5 – 3 hour drive. There are ruins closer to town but they are not nearly as spectacular and I recommend making the drive to Becal if you have a full day. Walking around the ruins took less than two hours and we climbed and explored every structure. I would put this site on par with Uxmal or Chichen Itza. What it lacks in infrastructure, it makes up for in freedom. There are no air conditioned spaces, restaurants or even vending machines. But at this site you are able to climb, explore and take your time all the while not seeing another group or tour. We finally saw 3 other people when we were leaving. The lack of luxury and other tourists at Becal makes for a real Mayan jungle experience.
On the way back to Majahual we stopped quickly in Xpuhil. It is a small site that has done little excavating. There is one large structure where again, you are fully able to climb and walk in and out of tunnels of the building. We could see more structures hidden in the jungle that are waiting to be cleared, I felt like an archeologist when one would catch my eye in the vast green forest.
Visiting these places gave me new appreciation for visiting Mayan sites. It felt more like real Mayan history should be, not touristy with vendors trying to sell you items but unprocessed and natural.
Majahual is both a traditional Mexican town and a tourist destination. There are few hotels as currently it is popular for cruise ships doing day trips. I think in the coming years it will continue to grow and experience new tourism development so now is the time to visit while it is still small and quaint.
I invite you to see some beach tours :)
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