A Practical Guide to Mayan Ruins of the Yucatan

Since I have visited a number of Mayan ruins, I would like to explain each of them helping the novice traveler decide which ones to visit.  The first four are accessible from the Riviera Maya in a day trip:  Chichen Itza, Tulum, Coba and Ek Balam.

Chichen Itza:  Probably the most well known ruins in the peninsula.  It is a full day trip from the Riviera Maya, but these are spectacular and worth the time.  In terms of ruins, I give it a 10 however so everyone else does and it shows.  You will most likely be surrounded by people the entire time.  You must get a guide for these ruins, the history and story is so amazing that I don’t know why anyone would go without a proper tour.  The experience becomes more personal and you will remember so much more about the experience.  This site is for the history buff who is very interested in learning about Mayan culture.

Tulum:  Very popular, beautiful ruins located right on the coast.  This is a relatively small site however it is striking against the bright Caribbean Sea.   It will not take long to view the ruins (around an hour or less) and there is a beautiful beach to enjoy afterwards.  Please note that there is not much shade on the coast so bring adequate sunscreen and a hat.  The two times I have been there were no vendors either, so bring a small cooler if you want refreshments.  What’s better than enjoying a few cervesas on the beach after traipsing around ruins?  I recommend this excursion for people that are interested in learning a little about Mayan culture but only want to sacrifice half a day. 

Coba:  Located in the jungle, Coba boasts the tallest pyramid in the Yucatan.  Coba is unique because of the jungle surroundings; you may see spider monkeys and all manner of indigenous birds.  Be sure to bring lots of bug spray.  This site is not as popular as Tulum or Chichen Itza, so you will be able to hire a guide inexpensively or wander on your own in relative privacy.

          

Ek Balam:  Although recently renovated, these ruins still have many large un-restored structures.  The crowning jewel of Ek Balam is located about 3/4ths up the main pyramid and contains almost perfectly intact stucco carvings of winged figures, which are not found in any other Mayan site.  This is a great way to view Mayan architecture at the micro level with more detail.  For me, the rest of the site fairly boring compared to Chichen or Uxmal, but the carvings are worth it.  After the ruins, an eco company run by locals has set up a bicycle route to a cenote.  It costs extra but the open air cenote is perfect after a hot day at the ruins so don’t forget your swimsuit.

Uxmal:  One of the most spectacular and historical sites in the Yucatan.  Since it is further from Cancun you do not get as many tourists, although with it’s proximity to Merida it does get some action.  It boasts one large pyramid, an interesting quadrangle formerly thought to be a school, a governor’s palace and many other smaller structures.  Currently you are unable to climb the large pyramid but everything else is open.  The views are stunning and if you are in Merida it is a must see.

Ruta Puuc including Kabah, Sayil and Labna:  These three small sites can be done in one day from Merida.  Each location has at least one well excavated structure and many looming in the jungle untouched.  They only cost a few dollars to get in and each one takes around 30 minutes or an hour to tour.  Bring a good guide book to learn more about the ruins as these sites might not have guides available to give tours.

Mayapan:  Close to Merida, Mayapan is in fact a smaller replica of Chichen Itza and is also the reason archeologists started using the names “Maya” and “Mayan” to refer to the indigenous people of the area.  There are some Impressive frescos and original paint on a few of the structures and we were able to hire a guide in Spanish for 50 pesos.  Mayapan is a well manicured site and easily accessible.  You can see the majority of the structures in about 1 hour.  It does not have large scale constructions such as Uxmal, Chichen or Edza, but it is worthwhile If you have  a free afternoon.  These ruins can also be coupled with the centoes at Cuzama for a day trip from Merida.

Dzibilchaltun:  Only 10 minutes from Merida, Dzibilchaltunis just off the highway that goes to Progresso.  Apparently there is an impressive museum but it was closed for renovations at the time of our visit.  Several small structures make up this site but the most interesting is the “house of the dolls” named due to the dolls found within at the time of excavation.  An interesting and somewhat sad feature of these ruins is the Catholic Church that was constructed from dismantling Mayan structures.  Also on the property there is a cenote open for swimming if you want to cool off.  We chose to drive up to Progresso after the ruins and have some ceviche and beer on the beach.  It made for a lovely afternoon outside of Merida.

Edzna:  Located near Campeche, this makes for a pleasant weekend visit to the city and ruins.  We left on a Saturday, toured the ruins, had a nice seafood lunch on the coast and the next day proceeded to tour the forts and town of Campeche before heading back to Merida.  I recommend this educational overnight trip since it includes Spanish and Mayan history.  As for the ruins of Edzna, there are several large structures and one eye-catching pyramid containing interesting architecture compared to Chichen Itza or Uxmal as the pyramid is one side of a large plaza.  We were unable to hire a guide so our guide book helped explain a lot of the structures.  I believe you could do this in a day trip from Merida but Campeche is worth the overnight.

Becan:  One of my favorite sites due to a number of factors including its unique architecture, jungle surroundings and secluded location.  It is not easy to get to and I drove about 2.5 hours from the Mahajual/Chetumal area to view these ruins.  My friends and I were literally the only people there the majority of our visit, we saw one other small group as we left.  Becan is nestled in the jungle (need bug spray) but I saw a multitude of interesting birds, flowers and plants.  The architecture and scale was amazing and you can literally crawl and climb over any structure which leads to fantastic views and photo opportunities.  There are multiple pyramids and a literal maze of structures to get lost in.  A gem of a site.


I invite you to see some Yucatan maya ruins here

Majahual, paradise beach of the Yucatan

Last weekend I went to Majahual which is about 3.5 hours south of Cancun almost to the border with Belize.  Majuahual is a small beach town but is becoming increasingly popular and busy due to a large cruise ship port.  So large that the most massive cruise ship in the world docks once a week.  Many streets have been expanded and paved and new houses have been built to accommodate the influx of workers.   

Conversely just 15 kilometers north of Majahual is largely undeveloped raw beauty.  There are a few houses scattered about.  Some were so damaged in Dean that they have been abandoned.  Others withstood the storm or are new builds.  There are no restaurants, grocery stores or other shops.  You must bring all of your supplies with you or make the 25 minute drive back into town.  We rented a wonderful beach house that was very reasonable due to low season.  We kayaked north a few kilometers and went snorkeling; we were the only ones on the reef.  In the morning it was incredible to watch the sunrise from the balcony.  The pink, orange and blue colors mixed with clouds were unlike anything I had seen in a long time.   

Majahual is within driving distance to many ruins.  We made the long trek to Becal, which is a 2.5 – 3 hour drive.  There are ruins closer to town but they are not nearly as spectacular and I recommend making the drive to Becal if you have a full day.  Walking around the ruins took less than two hours and we climbed and explored every structure.  I would put this site on par with Uxmal or Chichen Itza.  What it lacks in infrastructure, it makes up for in freedom.  There are no air conditioned spaces, restaurants or even vending machines.  But at this site you are able to climb, explore and take your time all the while not seeing another group or tour.  We finally saw 3 other people when we were leaving.  The lack of luxury and other tourists at Becal makes for a real Mayan jungle experience.

On the way back to Majahual we stopped quickly in Xpuhil.  It is a small site that has done little excavating.  There is one large structure where again, you are fully able to climb and walk in and out of tunnels of the building.  We could see more structures hidden in the jungle that are waiting to be cleared, I felt like an archeologist when one would catch my eye in the vast green forest.   

Visiting these places gave me new appreciation for visiting Mayan sites.  It felt more like real Mayan history should be, not touristy with vendors trying to sell you items but unprocessed and natural.

      

Majahual is both a traditional Mexican town and a tourist destination.  There are few hotels as currently it is popular for cruise ships doing day trips.  I think in the coming years it will continue to grow and experience new tourism development so now is the time to visit while it is still small and quaint. 

I invite you to see some beach tours :) 

http://www.adventures-mexico.com/

Celestun Yucatan

Since my husband and I had some celebrating to do we decided to go to the beach last weekend.  We wanted to visit somewhere we’d never been so we headed to Celestun, about 1.5 hours west of Merida.  


Although the ocean is not as clear blue as the Riviera Maya, it is a very charming place and the water is emerald green.  Most people come to Celestun to view the flamingoes which are native to this area.  There are many boat tours that will take you to their habitat and it is amazing to see these birds in their own environment.  However we took a different tour through the mangrove forest which allowed us to see many other birds and wildlife.  The tour was wonderful; to start we hiked through a swamp area on wood paths and then took a canoe tour through the mangroves.  We saw all sorts of wonderful birds, including some ibis and a roseate spoonbill, which is a very beautiful pink bird.  Once we exited the mangroves and entered the shallow lagoon, nature had another surprise for us.  We saw all sorts of animals including crabs, blowfish and even freshwater stingrays!  It was incredible to see these animals in their habitat; truly something I had never done before.  After the canoe trip we hiked a few hundred feet and viewed the petrified forest under a nice shaded palapa.  There are currently conservation efforts going on for the mangroves, lagoon and forest and it felt good to know our tourism dollars helped the effort.  After a quick break, we hopped on bikes to finish off the tour with a quick 1 km ride.  On the way we saw some flamingoes eating shrimp, which is why they have the famous pink color.  In total the tour took around 2.5 hours and was just wonderful.  If you visit Celestun I highly recommend it. 

Afterwards we went to a beach restaurant for some well deserved ceviche and cerveza.  The rest of the time in Celestun was spent lounging on the beach and trying a few of the restaurants.  We went to Casa Peon the first night which was very good and has a very eclectic, international flavor.  Saturday we went to a small restaurant right on the town square and had pizza which was delicious. 

Celestun is a typical laid back Mexican beach town.  The people were very friendly and we had a wonderful time.  Come here to relax and get away from the fast pace of city life and don’t expect too much to do besides the flamingo or mangrove tours.  It is the perfect place to relax on the beach with a good book.  Things are slow in Celestun but that’s what gives it charm.  We came back refreshed and definitely hope to return!

Things to do in Yucatan

When one decides to have a vacation and to travel, the first conflict on our minds is the “where”, you go analyze the pros and the cons from a list of places, some of them suggested by your friends, from the internet, some you heard, and so many others.  After you´ve decided which of these is the best option for you according to your wants and needs, comes the next issue… Once there, what should I do? What places should I go to? Is there any special festivities or events? What restaurants should I try?  And if you don´t have any acquaintances living in that place or any friend who has gone there, is very difficult to take a decision, after  all it´s not a dime what you need to have some vacations, it´s a considerable amount of money, so of course we all want to take the best of it.

Everyone who has gone on a vacation has gone through these dilemmas and it´s terrible to feel that kind of uncertainty. This is why we decided to do a little guide of interesting things to do in Merida and Yucatan while staying.

CULTURAL

On the next link you can find a calendar with all of the cultural events and things to do in Merida, and interesting places to go such as museums, cultural centers (more than 10), the artistic crews like the Ballet Folklorico, the city chorus, the chamber orchestra of Merida, places with history and so on, those where some of the categories of cultural interests and things to do you can find, and a really good thing is that it includes the location of them.

http://www.merida.gob.mx/cultura/

Yucatan Trova:

Every Thursday since 40 years ago an authentic, beautiful and romantic serenade takes place on the Santa Lucia Park (60 street x 55 and 57) at 9:00 pm. It is just wonderful to see the old people dancing cheek to cheek looking so in love after so many years. It is also an opportunity to listen to one of the most beautiful types of music in México, Trova.

Vaqueria Folkloric Ballet

Every Monday at 9:00 pm in La Plaza Grande you will find the talented Jarana Orchestra delighting all the public with their authentic signature dance, Jarana. Enjoy a pleasant time while watching the colorful costumes of the region. This is the an authentic typical event that you can´t miss.

Yucatan Planetary

Would you like to know the Merida, Yucatan Planetary? Well, find all of the information about it on the next link. You will find info about the working schedule, the shows, the workshops, the different projections, some news about the cosmos, a photo gallery and more.

Turibus Ride

Afraid of not getting to see all of the best spots of Merida? Well, this is a practical, easy and fun way to do it on a short time. The turibus will take you to those places you might not see for the lack of time. Have the ride on the turibus  second floor and enjoy the warm sunny weather, besides, it´ll be easier to take pictures this way.

Merida is a beautiful city, colonial, full of the Spanish heritage. In Paseo de Montejo you will be able to see amazing mansions and contemporary art on the avenue, the hot spots all around the city and so on.

http://www.merida.gob.mx/planetario/

Eco Museo del Cacao

Come to this amazing museum; learn how the Mayans used to make chocolate with their ancient and traditional techniques.  They will receive you with a tasty mayan beverage and will witness a part of the mayas that not many people does.

ADVENTURE

If you are the adventurer type you will find many different activities for you! From the easiest and with almost no level of difficulty to the extreme ones! One of the best parts of adventure travel in Yucatan is that it is very close to nature and kind of alternative, there are some activities that you just won´t be able to do in other places.

Underground Caves (Grutas)

The underground caves exploring , and just like we mentioned before, even in this particular thing you can choose between the tourist way, the savage way and the extreme way!

But you must be wondering what´s this grutas thing, right? Well, it is an underground cave with tons of tunnels through which you have to scroll.

Bike Ride

You can also be interested on having a nice bike ride through the Yucatan Villages, see the little Mayan huts, the kids will say hello to you, have a first hand look of the Maya way of living, bike through the jungle and after that you can have a nice traditional lunch.

Cenotes

Cenotes are kind of an underground pool because the water is so clear and clean, really just like you were in a pool. And are just amazing because as they´re underground, you can see on the roof the hanging roots of the trees and you can even climb them and take a dive to the water! You will also see how the sunlight gets into the cenote from the roof forming beautiful colors inside, if you´re lucky enough you can even see a rainbow inside the cenote.  Take your diving gear and see beautiful things under the water, it is simply amazing.

Explore de Yucatan Riviera

There are many beautiful beaches in the Yucatan Riviera, how fun would it be to rent a car and explore it?

There´s one in particular named “San Crisanto” and it is a beautiful not touristy and almost without any people in beach, it´ll be you and the nature alone. You can rent a little eco hut, which are actually awsome, they don´t have any floor so it´s only the sand all over your feet. They have 2 nice bedrooms where you can sleep either in bed or hammock, a little kitchen, living room and dinning. Take the sun, have some drinks with your friends and have a real nice time here.

RESTAURANTS

There are many restaurants you can go in Merida, in fact, the city is been growing more these last two years than ever with the opening of many new restaurants, hot spots,  and many other establishments. When it comes to find a nice restaurant We have some recommendations:

La Chaya Maya

This is a Yucatan traditional cuisine restaurant, very good food. And though the decoration is a bit touristy, the food is very authentic. This is actually very famous restaurant in Mérida it is a bit crowded at lunch time. Another good thing about it is that it is located on the beautiful down town, so feel free to have a little walk afterwards.

Trotters

This is a unique atmosphere restaurant, exquisite food and very sophisticated but in a fair price. You can´t miss this modern restaurant built in a colonial Spanish mansion. It´s perfect if you´re in the mood of some international food and wine with a hint of Mexico.

Jardin Balbuena

Are you in the mood of some mexican fried quesadillas? Or sopes? This restaurant offers the biggest quesadillas in town and the biggest Mexican food in town. This huge version of Mexican food is very tasty, but be careful with the salsa! The address is: 20 street #45D x 1-G Colonia Mexico Norte.  

The Smoking Club

If you Haven´t you tried the tacos de cochinita pibil, then you haven´t tried the most typical breakfast for yucatecos! They are delicious and you´ve to drink a “negra crystal” with it. This restaurant is one of the oldest and most famous in the Yucatan, the grandfathers of our grandfathers  used to go there for breakfast!

BARS

B&B´s

GENERAL SERVICES

Would you like to know a bit more about the Merida and Yucatan history? Then click on the next link and discover all of the interesting events that took place in the city you´re at.

http://www.merida.gob.mx/historia/

TOUR RECOMMENDATIONS

IMPORTANT TELEPHONES AND LINKS

On this link you can find some general information that might be very useful while staying in Yucatan, information about the current weather, maps, and others.

http://www.merida.gob.mx/municipio/turista.html

Mexico Bullfight

Last weekend there was a bullfight in Merida, a great thing to do while you´re staying here, and since I thought it would be very cultural I decided to go.  It was very interesting.  Tickets were less than $20 USD per person and I opted for the general admission side with the sun since we only had to endure it for about twenty minutes. 

The Bullfight is very popular

In Mexico there are three parts to each bull fight.  The first the bull enters the ring and is observed by the matador to observe its strength and ferocity while doing a series of passes with a rose colored cape.  Second, a heavily armed man on horse back enters the arena carrying a lance or spear like object to stab the bull just behind its neck to weaken it.  Second, the matadors’ crew, called banderillas, attempt to stab six large and sharp sticks into the bulls shoulder, in around the same place where it was stabbed earlier.  The final stage, the matador enters the ring alone with a red cape and sword.  The matador does a series of passes which promt the typical “Ole!” from the crowd.  Finally, the matador attempts to thrust the sword into a small space between the shoulder blades through the aorta or heart.  This is the kill shot for the bull. 

Bullfighter

If the matador does exceptionally well the audience will reply by waving white handkerchiefs.  Sometimes the one or both ears of the bull will be cut off and awarded to the matador.  We were lucky enough to experience one of the best bullfights in recent years according to the local paper.  There were three matadors who each competed twice, and overall 6 bulls were killed.  It was a little bloody however in my opinion the cultural experience was worth it.  There are beers for sale for $25 pesos is about $2USD as well as foods such as popcorn and kibis, which are actually a Middle Eastern dish that has been integrated into the Yucatan.  It is a delicious fried wheat roll with meat and onions inside.   

Plaza de toros

Although there are many groups that argue this practice is barbaric and cruel, I found it a very interesting part of Mexican culture.  We were lucky enough to sit next to some very polite Mexicans who answered all our questions about the bullfight.  The next bullfight is Portuguese style and is supposed to be very different.  I look forward to the experience. 

Yucatan Cook book

Appetizer 

                                                                                         




Sopa de Lima

Ingredients:

  2 cups of water
  ½ chicken breast
  3 oregano leaves
  1 clove of garlic
  1 tablespoon of oil
  2 diced tomatoes
  1 diced bell pepper
  ½ diced onion
  3 sliced limes (2 peeled and 1
with skin for garnish)
  Little salt
  Fried shredded corn tortillas

Preparation:

Boil the water with the oregano, the garlic and the salt. Once boiled, cook the chicken breast for 30 minutes approximately. After this, shred the breast.

Stir-fry with the oil the tomatoes, onions and bell peppers ´till they get soft. Finally, add the peeled limes to the mix for two minutes. Incorporate to the broth.

Add to the broth we prepare before the shredded chicken breast and cook for 10-15 minutes.
Serve with the shredded corn tortillas (tostadas) on top and a sliced of the lime with peel.







Salbutes

Ingredients:


  1 pound of dough (masa)
  4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  Lard (Manteca de cerdo) or corn oil for frying
  1 1/2 cups cooked, shredded turkey or chicken
  1 cup shredded cabbage or lettuce
  Pickled red onions
  Sliced tomatoes
  Habanero chiles in vinaigrette
  Avocado


Preparation:

Mix the dough and the flour until they are well blended and the flour is uniformly incorporated into the dough.

Divide the dough into equal size balls and press them lightly in a waxed paper lined tortilla press. They should be smaller and thicker than regular tortillas.

In a deep skillet, fry them on both sides in hot lard or oil. They will inflate as they cook. Remove each one as it inflates and drain well on paper towels.

Top each salbute with a layer of cabbage, then turkey or chicken, pickled red onion and sliced tomato and avocado.

Serve immediately, accompanied by habaneros if desired. Make around 12.


Ingredients for the pickled red onion:

  2 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced
  1/2 cup vinegar
  1/4 cup orange juice
  1/2 teaspoon dried oregano or thyme
  Salt and pepper to taste


Preparation:

Place the onions in a saucepan, add water to cover, bring to a boil and remove from heat. Drain and rinse in cold water to stop the cooking process.

Place the onions in a container with the remaining ingredients and allow to sit for several hours before serving. They keep up to one week in the refrigerator.


















Sikilpak

Ingredients:


  1 cup unhulled raw pumpkin seeds
  1/4 cup raw hulled pumpkin seeds
  3 to 6 tomatoes
  1 habanero chile, or any fresh green chile such as jalapeño or serrano
  Salt to taste
  1/3 to 2/3 cups water
  2 tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro
  2 tablespoons minced chives

Preparation:                                            

Heat a skillet or wide pan over medium heat. While mixing frequently, toast the unhulled pumpkin seeds until browned and crisp. The amount of time needed depends on the freshness of the pumpkin seeds and may take anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes. Some of the pumpkin seeds will pop.

Once well-browned, add the hulled pumpkin seeds and toast for an additional minute. Set the toasted pumpkin seeds aside and let cool.

In the same skillet, char the chiles and tomatoes while turning frequently until blistered in spots.

Blend the charred tomatoes with about 1/3 cup of water. Stir into the pumpkin seed powder and add the cilantro and chives. The consistency should be smooth, resembling a coarser version of hummus or baba ghanoush

Top with the minced chile. Taste and adjust the seasoning with kosher salt if needed.
Serve with toasted tortilla chips.

Main Course

             


Pollo Pibil

Ingredients:

  4 chicken legs and thighs
  4 Diced tomatoes
  1 Diced onion
  Some achiote (the size of an egg)                                  
  Roasted banana leaf
  Salt

Preparation:

Dissolve the achiote and the lemon juice together with your hands until the mixture gets a medium density. Add salt and coat chicken with mixture.

Cover the pot with the pre-roasted banana leaf and add one cup of water. On top place the chicken and the leftover achiote mixture. Then add tomatoes, onion and salt to taste and cover the pot.

Cook 40 minutes over low heat.



Lomitos de Valladolid

Ingredients:

  1 pound of pork cut into cubes
  8 tomatoes
  ground oregano
  chile powder
  2 habanero peppers
2 boiled eggs to decorate


Preparation:

Put the pan over medium heat to fry the meat and grind slowly as it releases the juice. Add oregano, chile powder and salt.

Apart, put to cook the tomatoes with boiling water. Once cooked, crush them by hand (not machine) complete with skin to form a thick sauce.

Add the sauce to the meat and put the salt of your choice. Cook with the pan covered for 50 minutes. Then, add the habanero and recapping for 10 more minutes.

Serve with slices of boiled egg and refried beans.




Frijol con Puerco

Ingredients for the beans:

  1 kg of beans
  1 kg of cubed pork
  1 onion cut in quarters
  Epazote (a Yucatecan herb)
  Habanero chile


Ingredients for the Chiltomate sauce:

  2 roasted tomatoes
  1 roasted garlic
  Roasted chile habanero
  Chopped cilantro

Preparation:

Soak the beans in water a day ahead of time. Chop the pork in small chunks. Place the beans, onion and epazote in a pot and cook over medium heat. When almost soft, remove 2 cups of the broth for the rice. Add the meat to the beans and water to cover. Cook until pork is tender. Cook the rice in the bean broth with the garlic and salt. Serve with tortillas, chiltomate and accompaniments.

Dessert

Cremita de Coco

Ingredients:

  1 liter of milk
  1 small coconut
  7 tablespoons of sugar
  3 cinnamon sticks
  Ground cinnamon
  3 / 4 cup cornstarch


Preparation:

Blend the coconut with a little milk for 2 minutes.

Bring to a boil over low heat the remaining milk with sugar and cinnamon sticks. Add ground coconut and let it heat until hot.

Before it boils add the cornstarch diluted in water or milk and stir until boiling and thickened, about 2 or 3 minutes more. Allow to cool.

Serve sprinkled with ground cinnamon.


                                         








Caballeros Pobres


Ingredients:

  4 loaves of previous day                            
  6 eggs
  Cinnamon sticks
  1 cup sugar
  4 cups water
  Oil
  1 / 4 cup raisins


Preparation:

Boil the water with sugar, cinnamon and raisins.

Separate the egg whites and beat until stiff but not dry. Cut the bread into slices of 1 inch, batter and fry.

Then, add the bread to the syrup and leave to cook for 15 minutes. Allow to cool.

Option: You can add the syrup blanched almonds




Dulce de Papaya

Ingredients:

1 papaya of 3 kilos approx.
1 kilo sugar
10 grams cinnamon sticks
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 liter water
100 grams lime
6 fig leaves
100 grams cubed Dutch cheese

Preparation:
Clean the papaya and remove the skin and seeds. Cut lengthwise in strips 4 to 5 cm. wide, then in triangles. Soak in water with lime, enough to cover, for an hour, then rinse.
Put in a pot and add the sugar, water, vanilla, cinnamon and fig leaves. Cover and cook at low heat for 90 min. without stirring. Remove from heat and cool before chilling. Serve with cheese cubes on top.

Beaches of the Mayan Riviera

I have stayed in four different cities on the Mayan Riviera. They were all distinctly different with their own unique perks. Below I sort out the differences between Cancun, Puerto Morelos, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum.

Cancun is the largest of the four. The hotel zone reminds me of Vegas with lavish hotels, clubs, restaurants and shopping. Since hurricane Wilma in 2005, many hotels chose to upgrade their accommodations targeting the luxury traveler. That said Cancun still has all the clubs you’ve heard of like Senior Frogs, Daddy O’s and Coco Bongo. The beach is beautiful and Isa Mujeres is only a few minutes away by ferry, a must see for anyone in Cancun. I can’t think of anything you will be unable to find in Cancun, it is a large, accessible city.
Heading south you run into Puerto Morelos. This is still a relatively small fishing village and I find it to be the most authentic Mexican town of the four. The beaches are just as nice as Cancun but with 1/3 of the people. Accommodations here are not very luxurious but also not as expensive. There are a few hotels on the beach but various laws have prohibited large buildings so it keeps a small town feel. There are some restaurants, a grocery store, a few dive shops and little to no nightlife compared to Cancun or Playa.

Next up is Playa del Carmen. Playa is quickly becoming Cancun’s rival for popularity. There are a number of all inclusive resorts and Senior Frogs as well as Coco Bongo have clubs there. Quinta Avenida (5th Avenue) is still a favorite for shopping, bar hopping and you can even find a few hostels left over from when Playa was a backpacker’s paradise. As with all Mayan Riviera cities, the beach is amazing however you will find more solicitors here. The ferry to Cozumel runs regularly from Playa which makes it easy to split your vacation between the two places.

The last on our journey is Tulum. There is a hotel zone as well as ruins. If you visit the Mayan Riviera I recommend seeing the ruins of Tulum. They are stunning ancient buildings right on a cliff overlooking the beautiful Caribbean Sea. No matter where you stay on the Riviera your hotel should be able to recommend a good tour company for Tulum.

The hotel zone south of Tulum is known as “eco chic.” All the hotels must generate their own electricity which means they might not have it 24 hours a day. Most of them are small cabana type accommodations with no air conditioning. There are a few bars and restaurants but no large clubs or discos; it is a very tranquil place and some of the hotels offer yoga classes or cleansing mud treatments on the beach.
As you can see, the Riviera Maya has a place for everyone. If you like a relaxing vacation on the beach or to party it up until all hours of the morning, The Mayan Riviera has towns to please all tastes. I look forward to reviewing some other places such as Akumal or Puerto Adventuras soon.

Acanceh adventure

Going on adventures in the Yucatan never fails in showing that ancient history surrounds the area.  While trying to choose where to visit this weekend, we decided on Acanceh.  Honestly, we only looked up this town because we drove by a sign that pointed to Acanceh ruins and when I looked on our map I noticed there was a town but no mention of ruins.  This intrigued me to research further about the city.  It turns out there are two small pyramids right in the city center, as well as a church dating from the 1500’s.  The pyramids have been somewhat restored, but the site is difficult to reconstruct as many ruins lie on private property in backyards or are foundations of current homes.  The city of Acanceh is called a pueblo de tres epocas, or town of three eras due to the Mayan pyramids, the colonial church and the current architecture.  The ruins are fenced off and cost about 2USD to enter.  Once inside, a well dressed local gave us a 30 minute tour and we tipped him about $5 for his trouble.  My Spanish is increasing everyday and I was able to understand most of what the guide explained. 

After fully exploring the two pyramids, we walked around the town square a bit and then went to a cocina economica for lunch.  Cocina economica translates to economical kitchen and they are found in pretty much every Mexican pueblo in the country.  They offer 3-7 dishes for the day, all very reasonably priced.  I decided on the pechuga empanizada, which is thinly sliced fried chicken breast served with rice, corn tortillas and beans.  It is one of my favorite Yucatecan dishes and a comfort food I will surly miss when we’re gone.  I always cut the chicken into strips, put in a tortilla along with rice, then dip in the beans.  It is divine. 

We decided to take the scenic route back to Merida and drove through some other small pueblos; they are all so charming and endearing.  Many of them had circuses or other fiestas going on that evening and were in preparation stage.  I wish we could have stayed later and I can’t wait to go explore more next weekend. 

Safety in Mexico

One of the largest concerns for visiting Mexico is safety.  Parents are concerned with sending their children on immersion trips to Mexico due to the drug violence that is largely concentrated to the border.  One usually would not think twice about sending their child on a school trip to Washington DC, however statistics show that the murder rate Washington DC is nearly four times as high as Mexico City.  

A closer look at the facts teaches us that the violence in Mexico is not as widespread or dangerous as it seems.  If all of Mexico was truly unsafe, the State Department would have issued Travel Warnings for the entire country.  According to the US State Department:


The Mexican government makes a considerable effort to protect U.S. citizens and other visitors to major tourist destinations.   Resort areas and tourist destinations in Mexico do not see the levels of drug-related violence and crime reported in the border region and in areas along major drug trafficking routes.  

In reality, not visiting Mexico City due to violence along the border is like not visiting St. Louis because of violence happening in New York City.


Another article from the Arizona Star states:
http://azstarnet.com/news/local/border/article_a525d463-8fef-51ba-9b3e-59730f646a89.html


"We've had to do a lot of explaining that the Riviera Maya is a long way from the border. It's just taken more education," he said. "We have a big map and we show them."


Crime figures also show the level of violence varies wildly across the country. The homicide rate in the border state of Chihuahua last year was a horrifying 74 per 100,000. Levels in some other states such as Yucatan, Queretaro or Baja California Sur - where the Los Cabos resorts are located - were 5 per 100,000 or less, which is low to average even by U.S. standards.


 The Yucatan is a wonderful vacation spot as it is affordable, has wonderful beaches, ruins and colonial history.  But tourism is down due to tourists who falsely believe that it is unsafe.  In reality, the Yucatan has a murder rate similar to Wyoming and Montana according to an article published by USA Today:


http://www.usatoday.com/news/world/2010-08-03-Mexico-drug-violence_N.htm


The people and culture of Mexico are friendly, helpful and kind.  So, if you're avoiding Mexico because you believe it is too violent, please think again!

Some Yucatan dishes Recipes!

SOPA DE LIMA 

(Lime Soup) 

                                                                                                         Ingredients

                                                                    • 300 grams of chicken breast

                                                                                           • 1 clove of garlic

                                                                                           • A pinch of dried oregano

                                                                                           • A sprig of cilantro

                                                                                           • A little Salt 

                                                                                           • 1 / 2 kilo of white onion

                                                                                           • 400 grams of fresh chile

                                                                                           • 200 grams of red tomato

                                                                                           • A Little Oil  

                                                                                           • 6 Limes

                                                                                           • 2 tablespoons chicken bouillon powder

                                                                                           • 4 fried shredded corn tortillas 

          Preparation

The chicken broth is made with the chicken breasts, garlic, oregano, cilantro and salt in two quarts of water. Once it´s done, the breasts are removed to shred and strain them.

Chop off the onions, sweet pepper and tomatoes, fry them in oil until transparent. Add the chicken broth and the juice of 4 sour limes, this is seasoned with the chicken bouillon powder. Simmer for 10 minutes and strain. Serve in a bowl with the fried julienne tortillas on the top, the chicken and one or two slices of lime and the hot broth.

COCHINITA PIBIL

                                                                                                         Ingredients:

                                                                           ● 1 / 4 teaspoon salt 1 / 4 teaspoon white pepper

                                                                           ● 1 piece of pork loin

                                                                           ● 2 liters of water

                                                                           ● 4 bay leaves

                                                                           ● 1 / a piece of onion

                                                                           ● ½ stick axiote

                                                                           ● 1 small garlic clove

                                                                           ● 1 cup orange juice

                                                                           ● ½ cup apple cider vinegar

                                                                           ● 3 tablespoons chipotle chile broth

                                                                           ● salt to taste

preparation:

Sprinkle with salt and pepper the pork loin and empty it in a pot with water, the bay leaves and onion over medium heat and cover.

Meanwhile, place in the  blender the axiote, garlic, orange juice, vinegar and chile chipotle broth. Blend thoroughly and kept separately.

Once the meat is cooked and shred it and put the axiote on a pan for the heat to dissolve it.

When the axiote comes to a boil, add the pork, reduce heat to half and left for 5 minutes or until the broth concentrate.

Serve with sauce of red onions and habanero chile.

Follow us on our website and become a fan on facebook! 

Daily adventures in Mexico

As an American who recently moved to Mexico, I encounter small adventures on a daily basis.  Tasks that were once mundane in my hometown are now full of newness.  Each day when I drive to work, I learn rules and norms about driving in Mexico.  For instance, topes are everywhere.  They are basically speed bumps.  Small towns have them to prohibit cars from speeding through their village and  I’ve learned from experience to keep it slow on highways that have lots of small towns.  Trust me, its much better to have plenty of time to reduce speed when approaching a tope than to be surprised by it, your suspension will thank you.  There are many topes throughout large cities as well, used to keep traffic speeds at a minimum and to slow velocity when approaching a glorietta.  Which moves us to our next topic, gloriettas are basically roundabouts.  These took some getting used to as we have none in my hometown.  From trial and error I learned that you always yield to cars in the roundabout, the inside lane is for going around and the outside lane is for exiting.  I have to admit they are probably more efficient than stoplights but much more nerve-wracking and intimidating. 

Visiting the supermarket is another treat.  For the most part the same foods are available here and at a reduced price to boot.  However, there are some conveniences I’ve had to live without such as canned diced tomatoes, velveta cheese and fresh milk.  One can make due as there are a myriad of wonderful cuisines here that are unavailable in the states. 

One surprising realization was the costliness of various items.  Once my husband and I arrived, we planned on buying a car.  Little did we know that vehicles, particularly SUV’s, are around a third more expensive here than in the US.  The same goes for electronics.  The saying “everything is cheaper in Mexico” does not apply to mass produced goods such as electronics, vehicles, furniture and even clothing.  I buy a lot of these products online and even though there is the added cost of shipping, it is still usually cheaper than buying these goods locally.     

Although I love living in Mexico, there are a few things that I just don’t understand that drive me crazy.  One of these is the dialing of cellular phones.  Depending on if you’re calling on the same network, i.e Telcel phone to Telcel phone, you do not need the area code.  Unless you’re calling a number in a different state, in that case you DO need the area code.  However if you call from Nextel to Telcel, you need the area code no matter what.   I’m pretty sure something else happens when you call Nextel to Telmext and you’re in a different state.  Rules change for Nextel to Nextel, home phone to cellular and so on.  I’ve been here over two months and I still don’t understand which labyrinth of numbers to use when dialing.  I recently found a spreadsheet over a page long with instructions for each configuration possible which has helped.

Overall, my husband and I love living in Mexico.  The people are truly amazing here, always willing to help and most importantly they love to have a good time!  We live in the Yucatan which is very safe; the murder rate here is comparable with Montana and Wyoming and is 15 times lower than Washington, D.C.  There are a plethora of things to do such as museums, beaches and wonderful ruins.  If you avoid large tourist areas, food and accommodations are very reasonable making weekend trips easy and cheap.  Although I get homesick sometimes, I feel like I belong here and that Mexico is my home for now.